2002 Dodge Dakota

Run down Dodge Dakota pickup truck, needs work to run daily. It worked well enough to get me around all winter with 4x4 until the transmission went south (started leaking more oil but already had some odd behavior that didn't stop me from driving it). I don't want to take it to my new house and I don't need it anymore. Drives well enough to get it somewhere but not well enough to keep driving it without transmission work. Lots of aesthetic rust (some on body panels that are welded to the frame so it's considered structural rust, but it's not the frame). List of known problems: - no AC, just doesn't ever get colder than outside or slightly warm air - can't switch from face and feet to just one or the other for the blower / heater / AC, just doesn't do anything - transmission is leaking lots fast; it also behaved oddly before hand - transmission dipstick tube has a hole that the previous owner "patched" so it's hard to get back in (has a technique -_- ) - switch controls on driver side has broken plastic clips so the panel slides left and right - 4x4 sometimes won't switch back to 2hi, usually fixes it's self during my drive - I installed optional heated mirrors but haven't been able to get them working - engine leaks oil (1L every couple months), not sure where from but it seems to have been leaking for ages - brakes are touchy; replaced the master cylinder and all hardware on the rear except the piston in an attempt to fix this - previous owner removed the catalytic converter, so now 24/7 engine light and exhaust leak - a couple other engine codes that popped up after the transmission "went" - clunk when shifting out of overdrive gear (since I bought it, never got worse so I just disable the overdrive in the city) - the transmission issues seem to have largely gone away after leaving it for over a month but I'm sure they would pop back up. - cruise control doesn't work - parking brake is cut on the left rear (so only right rear works) - transmission screeches under hard acceleration when cold (like punching when going from 2nd-3rd); avoid by letting off a bit when it does this - washer fluid light is always on and it doesn't seem to be a sensor issue (mechanic said) - Work Done: - new master cylinder - bleed brakes - new rear drum brake hardware, pads, and drums (not pistons) - new front brake rotors - new winter tires and rims (Envy Steel A2121732 16x6.5, flat black rims, Dunlop Wintermaxx SJ8 245/75/R16 111R tires with a couple months winter driving on them) - all front tie rods, shocks, CV joints, lower ball joints, passenger upper ball joint, - new blower motor resistor (the old one was burnt out) - replaced one O2 sensor (to make one code go away from the catalytic converter removal the other guy did, the other one still isn't connected because it won't fix an air or help the engine to reconnect it. - ran a replacement wire for the output speed sensor of the transmission because the previous one was broken and it was causing shifting issues - rekeyed the doors so they are the same as the ignition (still have spare lock parts) - VIN: 1B7HG38N72S579530 (quad cab, 4x4, automatic transmission, 4.8L V8) Odometer: 280975km